A Deep Dive into One of the Most Versatile Hydrators
May 20, 2025
In the ever-evolving world of skincare, certain ingredients quietly rise to the top—not through marketing hype or celebrity endorsements, but because they work. Squalane is one of those under-the-radar powerhouses. It’s lightweight, non-comedogenic, incredibly moisturizing, and compatible with virtually every skin type. Whether your routine is stripped-down minimalism or a 12-step ritual, there’s a good chance squalane has a role to play.
So what exactly is squalane? Why is it in everything from serums to sunscreens? And is it really safe for oily or acne-prone skin? Let’s break it all down.
To understand squalane, we have to start with squalene—notice the “e” instead of an “a.”
Squalene (with an e) is a natural lipid produced by our sebaceous (oil) glands. It’s part of our skin’s barrier and helps keep it moisturized and protected. Unfortunately, it’s highly unstable and oxidizes quickly when exposed to air, light, or heat. That’s where squalane (with an a) comes in.
Squalane is the hydrogenated, saturated version of squalene. This small chemical tweak makes it far more stable, meaning it won’t go rancid and degrade quickly in your skincare products. And once applied to the skin, squalane mimics our natural oils remarkably well—without clogging pores or feeling greasy.
Historically, squalene was harvested from shark liver oil, which made it controversial and unsustainable. Today, most reputable skincare brands use plant-based squalane, usually derived from:
Of these, sugarcane-derived squalane (used by brands like Biossance) has gained popularity for being eco-friendly and reliably consistent in quality.
Pros of plant-derived squalane:
Cons:
Squalane’s strength lies in how effortlessly it supports the skin barrier, especially when that barrier is compromised—think dry, irritated, sensitive, or over-exfoliated skin. But that’s just the beginning.
Squalane is an emollient, which means it softens and smooths the skin. But unlike heavier oils, it has a dry oil texture—it sinks in quickly and doesn’t leave a sticky residue. It can be used by oily and acne-prone skin types without fear of clogging pores.
Your skin barrier keeps water in and irritants out. When it’s damaged, you get redness, flaking, and sensitivity. Squalane helps reinforce this barrier by mimicking the lipids your skin naturally makes, restoring balance.
Squalane helps neutralize free radicals, which are unstable molecules that can lead to premature aging. This makes it a great addition to anti-aging routines.
With regular use, squalane can improve the appearance of fine lines and promote plump, smooth skin. It won’t erase wrinkles, but it can enhance your skin’s suppleness and texture.
Thanks to its calming nature, squalane can help tone down irritation and inflammation. This makes it a solid choice for people dealing with rosacea, eczema, or post-procedure skin.
Squalane plays well with others. It can be used alongside retinoids, vitamin C, acids, and peptides without causing conflict or increased sensitivity. It’s also ideal as a carrier oil for essential oils or actives.
The beauty of squalane is that it’s stupidly easy to incorporate. But for best results, timing and layering matter.
Squalane is an oil, so you generally want to use it toward the end of your routine to lock in moisture. Here's a sample order of application:
If your skin is oily, you may even be able to skip the moisturizer and just use squalane as your final step.
Start with 2-3 drops and gently pat it into your face and neck. You can add more for body or hair.
Twice daily is totally fine, but many people prefer it at night due to its richer texture.
You’ll find squalane in a staggering number of skincare and beauty products—because it's gentle, stable, and multipurpose.
Here’s where you might spot it:
Look for “squalane” on the ingredients list. It’s often near the top, especially in minimalist or sensitive-skin formulas.
Generally speaking, yes. Squalane is considered one of the safest, most universally tolerated skincare ingredients. But as with anything, there are a few things to keep in mind.
Patch test if you’re concerned, especially with new products that have other actives mixed in.
Absolutely—unless you’re one of the rare few who reacts to everything. Squalane is like a cheat code for hydration. It’s gentle, lightweight, and compatible with nearly any skincare routine. Whether you’re chasing glow, treating irritation, or just trying to simplify your regimen, this ingredient can likely help.
Plus, with its sustainable plant-based sources and easy incorporation into everything from facial oils to body lotions, squalane is more than just a trend. It’s a staple—and probably deserves a permanent spot on your shelf.
TL;DR (But Let’s Call It “The Essentials”)
If your skincare routine were a band, squalane would be the rhythm section—quietly holding it all together, making everything sound (and look) better.